Kanazawa Experience
Leaving the elegant city of Kanazawa, with its samurai districts and garden landscapes, travelers can easily reach the sacred foothills of Mount Hakusan—one of Japan’s most revered mountains.
Only an hour away, Hakusan offers a completely different atmosphere: quiet villages, clear mountain air, and rivers that flow from ancient snowfields.
This short journey from city to mountain reveals another side of Japan, where culture, faith, and nature are deeply connected. Whether you’re heading for a scenic drive, a cycling adventure, or a visit to Shirayama Hime Shrine, Hakusan makes an ideal day or overnight trip from Kanazawa.
The Hakusan area lies to the south of Kanazawa in Ishikawa Prefecture, forming part of the wider Hakusan National Park.
The region stretches from the Tedorigawa River basin up to the mountain villages of Ichirino and Shiramine, and onward to the borders of Gifu Prefecture.
Distance from Kanazawa: about 30–50 km, depending on the destination.
Travel time: roughly 45–90 minutes by car or bus.
Main access point: Tsurugi Town, the gateway to Hakusan, where visitors can find the Hakusan City Tourism Information Center and rental car options.
Because public transportation is limited in the upper mountain areas, combining train + bus or rental car is the most efficient way to explore Hakusan’s natural and cultural sites.
For travelers who value freedom and scenic views, driving from Kanazawa is the best option.
The roads are well maintained, and navigation apps such as Google Maps provide accurate directions in English.
Main Route (Kanazawa → Hakusan):
Take the Hokuriku Expressway south from Kanazawa and exit at Hakusan-Ichirino or Matto Interchange. From there, follow local roads toward Tedorigawa or Shirayama Hime Shrine.
The drive to the foothills takes about one hour, and parking is available at most attractions, including the shrine, Ichirino Onsen, and Shiramine Village.
Driving Tips:
Gas stations are found near Kanazawa and Tsurugi, but become rare deeper in the mountains—fill up early.
Mountain roads can be narrow; drive slowly and give way to buses or cyclists.
In winter, snow tires or chains are essential (some roads close from December to April).
Toll roads such as the Hakusan–Shirakawa-go White Road are seasonal (June–November) and offer spectacular scenery.
A self-drive trip allows visitors to stop at waterfalls, scenic lookouts, and roadside cafés—making the journey itself part of the experience.
Travelers without a car can reach Hakusan’s main sites easily by bus.
From Kanazawa Station (East Exit), take the Hokutetsu Bus bound for Tsurugi or Shirayama Hime Shrine. The ride to Tsurugi takes about 50 minutes, and continuing on to the shrine adds another 20 minutes.
At Tsurugi Station, visitors can also transfer to local community buses or seasonal shuttle buses that go to Ichirino Onsen or Shiramine Village. Bus schedules vary by season, so checking in advance at the Kanazawa or Hakusan Tourist Information Center is recommended.
Approximate fares:
Kanazawa → Shirayama Hime Shrine: around ¥900–1,100 one way
Kanazawa → Ichirino Onsen: about ¥1,500 one way
While buses take slightly longer than driving, they offer a relaxed and eco-friendly way to enjoy the scenery. From the window, you can watch the Tedorigawa River winding through rice fields and small towns—a peaceful prelude to the mountains ahead.
For those who love scenic routes, the Hakusan–Shirakawa-go White Road is one of Japan’s most spectacular drives.
This 33-kilometer toll road winds through Hakusan National Park, linking Ishikawa and Gifu prefectures via mountain passes, waterfalls, and panoramic viewpoints.
The White Road is open only from early June to late November, as it is closed in winter due to heavy snow. From Kanazawa, it takes about 90 minutes to reach the Ishikawa entrance gate (Bettou-deai Gate), and another hour to cross to Shirakawa-go on the other side.
Along the way, drivers can stop at Kunimi Observatory, Fukube-no-Otaki Waterfall, and Oyadani-no-Yu, a natural hot-spring spot surrounded by forest steam. In autumn, the road is ablaze with red and gold foliage, making it one of the most photogenic drives in Japan.
Toll fee: approx. ¥1,700 one way for cars.
It’s perfect for travelers combining Kanazawa, Hakusan, Shirakawa-go, and Takayama into one scenic loop.
Here’s how to reach Hakusan’s most popular destinations from Kanazawa:
Shirayama Hime Shrine (白山比咩神社)
🚗 By car: About 50 minutes via Hokuriku Expressway → Matto Exit.
🚌 By bus: Hokutetsu Bus from Kanazawa Station → “Ichinomiya” stop (approx. 70 min).
Ichirino Onsen Ski Resort (一里野温泉)
🚗 About 75 minutes from Kanazawa. Parking available near hotels and ski center.
🚌 Seasonal bus from Kanazawa → Ichirino (operates mainly winter and summer weekends).
Shiramine Village (白峰)
🚗 Around 90 minutes from Kanazawa via Route 157.
🚌 Connection via Tsurugi Town (limited service, check local timetable).
Hakusan–Shirakawa-go White Road (白山白川郷ホワイトロード)
🚗 Entrance at Bettou-deai (Ishikawa side): about 1 hour 30 minutes from Kanazawa.
❄️ Closed from late November to early June each year.
Tip: Most attractions have free parking and English signage. Some ryokan and onsen facilities offer day-use bathing for cyclists or drivers who wish to rest mid-journey.
Weather & Seasons: The Hakusan region has heavy snowfall. Summer to autumn (June–November) offers the best conditions for mountain travel.
Driving Safety: Roads are well maintained but can be narrow in higher areas—drive slowly, especially around curves.
Navigation: Use Google Maps or set your GPS to “Shirayama Hime Shrine” or “Hakusan City Ichirino Onsen.” Both are reliable markers in English.
Cash & Cards: Small towns may not accept credit cards. Bring some yen, especially for tolls or local cafés.
Winter Travel: From December to April, mountain roads such as the White Road are closed. You can still visit lower areas like Shirayama Hime Shrine or Tedorigawa River.
Combine Experiences: Rent a bicycle in Tsurugi for short local rides, or stop at roadside michi-no-eki rest areas for regional sweets and crafts.
Following these simple tips ensures a smooth and enjoyable journey through Hakusan’s peaceful countryside.
Here are two sample plans to help visitors plan their Hakusan trip from Kanazawa:
🚗 One-Day Drive Plan (approx. 8–9 hours total)
08:30 – Depart Kanazawa
09:30 – Visit Shirayama Hime Shrine (spiritual center of Hakusan)
11:00 – Drive up to Ichirino Onsen and enjoy a foot bath or local lunch
13:00 – Continue to Shiramine Village, explore the old streets and museum
16:00 – Return to Kanazawa via Tedorigawa Valley
🏔 Two-Day Scenic Route Plan (Hakusan–Shirakawa-go loop)
Day 1: Kanazawa → Shirayama Hime Shrine → White Road → Overnight in Shirakawa-go
Day 2: Morning in Shirakawa-go → Drive to Takayama → Return via expressway or stay overnight
These itineraries balance culture, nature, and relaxation, showing just how easy it is to escape Kanazawa’s city life for a refreshing mountain adventure.
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